Medieval England – There and Back Again

It took a second, but we got there.

Upon initially landing in Manchester, I expected a severe sense of culture shock. I expected to feel as if I was in a completely new and foreign place, transported from one world to another over the course of a red-eye flight with more than occasional refreshments. Perhaps it was the fog of jet lag, or the insomnia, or the shoulder and neck pain that accompanies lugging a thirty-pound duffle bag across an international airport, but when I finally stepped outside of our hotel, ready to embrace Manchester and the feeling of itinerancy, I and it felt indifferent. Remove the reversed traffic and occasional trolley and reincarnate me in that moment without context and I’d ask how far from Penn Station I was and would only realize once I received a verbal response. My expectations had deceived me, and what I thought I would experience couldn’t necessarily be put into words, but I knew it wasn’t that. But I embraced it nonetheless and walked the streets with our group and the wonderful, plaid vested Dr. Charles Insley. As we walked through the city air, I began to lighten up, began to appreciate the small nuances that initially seemed like copy and paste, but it wasn’t until we reached the church in Manchester that I truly felt as if I was there. Standing outside of it and having nowhere else to look but upwards made me along with several others feel so incredibly small. This was a feeling I consistently felt throughout our trip, standing in the face of such gargantuan but beautiful architecture, but moreover, standing with the weight of an immense history around us. It was hearing that history, from Dr. Insley and all of our other wonderful tour guides, that allowed me to break from my indifference and appreciate what was before me. While what it was now was certainly spectacular, it wasn’t until I understood how and why it came to be the way it was that I truly understood what I was there for.

This feeling only intensified as the trip continued but was most pungent in the city of York. There was a dramatic shift between Manchester and York. We moved from the hustle and bustle of an entirely modern city to the hominess and quaintness of what felt like a small intimate village. While it was just as crowded, if not even more so, than Manchester, York provided the feeling that I thought I would experience when choosing to go on this trip. The city walls acted as a boundary and felt as if they were hugging you, constantly reminding you of the rich and vast history that you are walking through. Though it may have been contested later in the trip, the York Minister, when I initially saw it, was the most impressive structure that I’ve ever seen. From the outside, you felt a tremendous weight and presence which intensified ten-fold as you walked through its doors. While I appreciated everything that our tour guide had to say, the first ten to fifteen of minutes of what they spoke about went completely over my head as I was too busy looking around and upwards with my jaw nearly dethatched from my skull. It was too beautiful and too impressive to even begin to properly appreciate which is a wonderful flaw to have. It was in this moment, walking through that first set of church doors, that I knew I made the right decision to take this adventure.

Stories in the Stained-Glass Windows

Whenever I hear that some famous person probably walked exactly where I am walking in museums, galleries, or restaurants, I have a hard time believing it. The linoleum floors look just as shiny as they did before and I feel no powerful presence left behind. As I walked up steps indented over time by hundreds of pilgrims wanting to see the Canterbury Cathedral for its miracles, I felt that presence. This was not the powerful presence of one, but many. People from all different backgrounds and all across Europe came to this one place, sometimes undergoing many trials. Some never arrived at all (I say that looking at Chaucer’s famous The Canterbury Tales—a text that I have read at least three times by now). I had achieved what Chaucer’s characters were unable to do and have left my mark on the stone that have already been eroded by so many before me. …And I’m just a wee English major.

While in England, we visited four amazing churches: the Manchester Cathedral, the York Minster, the Westminster Abbey, and, of course, the Canterbury Cathedral. Each one presented its unique charm and can easily be called marvels of medieval architecture. I held my breath entering each churches’ immense halls and was enamored by the history they held. Crypts and chapter houses presented something that was unlike anything I had seen before in churches. These churches are still in action today meaning people can come in for services, just like people hundreds of years ago would have.

As an art enthusiast and medieval fantasy writer, these churches were a feast for the eyes and imagination. Designed with Gothic aesthetics, they comprise of many small details. While waiting for friends or taking a break in an unsuspecting corner, I often found myself next to small carvings of dragons, flowers, and demons that would have been easily overlooked if I hadn’t stopped then and there. Since churches are built over the span of many years, the different aesthetics of the time shine through, making these structures the ultimate work of collaboration.

My favorite part when it comes to the designs of the churches however has to be the stained-glass windows. They are a dash of bright color, a symbol of light, and a story. No, really! This where the term “story” comes from when we refer to the height of buildings as stained-glass windows are meant to be read from the bottom to the top. It’s such a unique way of telling religious tales, regulating natural light, and honoring the creativity of artists at the time. I was particularly fascinated by the Great East Window depicting the Biblical story of creation at the York Minster which took ten years to renovate by 2018 (definitely worth it) and the Miracle Windows in the Canterbury Cathedral which depicts the many miracles of St. Thomas Becket. The latter windows display their stories in circles, which was unique from the other churches, and were in stunning condition. I am thankful to have been able to see these churches with such an amazing group for the creative inspiration they gave me and the history they held. Should you find yourself in England and wish to embrace your inner art/history enthusiast side, I highly recommend checking out a church. You never know what you’ll find!

Thank you for reading!

Teodora Buzea

Becoming a Culinary Enthusiast in York

Oh, York! How ever would I be able to sing all its praises?! From the York Minster to the Jorvik Viking Centre; a cruise down the River Ouse to a downright hilarious Ghost Tour—There is just so much to talk about in this historic location! As I sat down to write this blog, I took a deep breath, grabbed my mug of tea, and decided to talk about my journey through York via the essentials: food. I wouldn’t consider myself a foodie… much. I just appreciate the culture, history, and creativity that go behind dishes and the ability to reflect and form strong friendship bonds through dining.

Let’s set the scene: It’s the second day of our trip to England and we just finished visiting the beautiful York Minster. With grandiose stained-glass windows and a rich history, the York Minster found itself becoming my favorite cathedral/church while in England. The Minster began to be built in 1220 and wasn’t considered complete for over 250 years. You know what has existed longer than that and can be completed in about thirty minutes? A British Pie! Savory and warm, the pie is a staple of any British pub or restaurant, and I had the pleasure of sampling three different kinds during this trip. In York, I had a wonderful wild mushroom pie with gravy on top. When not topped with gravy, the pie can be a very portable type of food. The thick crust holds the meat or vegetables at the perfect temperature until it can be cracked open and enjoyed. I wonder if the people responsible for the building of the Minster had the pleasure of eating something similar to the pie. I sure hope so. I rate this pie a 10/10!

Most of my culinary journey in York took place on the third day, so it is time to set the scene yet again: It’s a Sunday. Service at the Minster has just ended, and I’m waking up thinking about the Ghost Tour I went on the night before. York is considered England’s “most haunted city”. Aside from ghosts, one may also find… Vikings! At the Jorvik Viking Centre, we traveled through a recreation of a Viking village with really well-made animatronics (and, for a second there, I thought they were actors!). Under this centre, an archeological dig took place and uncovered the remains of a Viking village. By the time our adventure in the centre was over, I felt compelled to try a close-by food truck’s self-proclaimed “Viking Burger” featuring wild boar patties with loganberries and leeks. The sweet berries brought this burger to the next level and the leeks paired with them very well. Did you know that leeks were the original symbol of Wales? Some Vikings also spoke versions of Old Welsh too! To this burger, I give it a 11/10! (I am a food enthusiast; not a food critic.)

For our next culinary adventure, there is something I must admit: 95% of my liquid intake is tea. I love tea, and when I saw we would be going to Betty’s Tea Room, I dashed over to YouTube to learn proper tea etiquette in England. The concept of afternoon tea stems from the seventh Duchess of Bedford, Anna. She felt that the time between lunch was a wee bit long and that just some small snacks and tea during that space would be acceptable. It’s the perfect time to invite some friends over and engage in gossip too! I couldn’t agree more, Anna! The tea was positively divine, and I experienced two types: Betty’s Afternoon Tea Blend and Pi Lo Chun Green Tea. They paired perfectly with the teeny tea sandwiches, scones, and macaroons. Oh, how I wish I could be there once more. Before I left, I made sure to buy a box of the tea blend for home. They don’t call me Tea-dora for nothing! (Actually, nobody calls me that, but it’d be a great name if I ever opened a tea store or brand.) Tea-riffic tea! Tea-n out of tea-n!

Like any meal, the best way to end a trip in York is with deserts. After finishing my packing for the expected train ride to Cambridge the next day, I opened a small box and was graced by tiny treasures. Chocolate! York is rather famous for its chocolate. If you ever had one of those chocolate oranges, then think of York the next time you eat one because that was the place it was made. I learned that, before the famous chocolate orange, Terry’s dabbled with chocolate apples and chocolate lemons. I love citrus flavors, so a chocolate lemon sounds delicious. This time, I tried chocolates with flavors like rhubarb, strawberry coconut, and mixed berry. There were six in this box, so I think a fair score is… 60/10!

Thus ends my culinary escapades in York! Seeing the sites, eating the food, and making friends are definitely memories that will not be forgotten. If you ever get the chance to visit this wonderful city, I hope you can find joy in the culinary scene too! There are plenty of restaurants that offer vegetarian options and I was thoroughly impressed with how servers and staff generally make it a habit to ask parties if there are any dietary restrictions. Bon Appetit!

Thank you for reading!

Teodora Buzea

Just Touched Down in London Town

Throughout our time in England, we visited multiple cities and saw many different places. We all know how much I love York… if you were unaware of this, please read my previous post! However, London came as a close second. I was really worried that I would feel like I was in New York City—just with slightly cleaner streets and big, red busses. While it still felt like New York City, London had its own quirks that made it just as charming.

My favorite part about London, however, was the infamous Globe Theatre. This was something that was high up on my bucket list of things to see before I die, and I feel very fortunate to have been able to not only visit this charming theatre, but to see a Shakespeare play there as well. As soon as we walked in, we were greeted by the lovely staff, and equally as lovely (and clever) hand sanitizer station.

We had a little bit of time to kill before our show, Much Ado About Nothing, started, so we decided to hit the gift shop beforehand. Roughly £230 later, I left the gift shop with two tote bags, a t-shirt, a mug, two posters, a collection of the entire works of Shakespeare, all rolled into one large book with golden edges, and of course, a pair of Macbeth socks.

With our bags full of purchases that we certainly did not need, we headed onto our tour of The Globe. Upon entering the theatre for the first time, my breath was taken away immediately. On a rare occurrence for London, the brightly shining sun casted a warm glow over the entire theatre. I looked at Grace with tears in my eyes, wanting to pinch myself at how beautiful and iconic the scenery was in front of me.

The stage was filled with actors, dressed in their normal clothes, doing warm-ups and preparing themselves for the show in which we were about to see. I half-listened to our tour guide (sorry, Norma), as I was simply so enthralled watching them and my surroundings.

After our tour, we grabbed our seat cushions and headed up to our seats. As we waited for the show to start, we took some pictures and geeked out (as English majors do) over the fact that we were actually here. Throughout the show, we laughed, we cried, and very clearly enjoyed ourselves.

Out of all of the things we did in London, The Globe was by far my favorite. As we have talked a lot about in this class, it is often easy to dismiss Shakespeare as someone whose work is too difficult to understand, and perhaps slightly pretentious. However, as someone who used to struggle with Shakespeare and now loves him, I can guarantee that anyone who sees any play of his as a live performance is guaranteed to be impressed. The memories I made at The Globe are ones that I will carry with me forever, especially into my future classroom.

Emma Stack

The Charms of York

The first time I truly felt like I was finally in Europe was when we first touched down in York. With their quaint little side streets and beautiful architecture, I was able to fall in love with the city almost immediately. We visited this charming city on our second and third days in England, and I am so glad that we did. Going into this trip, I was expecting to only enjoy my time in London. Once we arrived, I realized that I would actually come to enjoy York the most.

After a horrifying first day (filled with non-Covid related sickness and extreme jetlag), we hopped on the train from Manchester to York. Grace and I, being in charge of the bags (see picture below), stood the whole time. I was gradually becoming crankier as the train journey continued, wanting nothing more than to lay down. I was in no mood to attempt to navigate a new city already, and wanted nothing more than to get to our hotel room and take a nap.

All of those negative thoughts went out the window immediately once I stepped out of the train station. I was greeted by beautiful streets and beautiful people, becoming infatuated with the city almost instantaneously. We walked the streets and visited some cathedrals (a pattern that I initially thought would get really boring really quickly—it never did) and searched the area for the best coffee.

We even got to play dress up, getting a glimpse into what life was like in Medieval York. During times when we weren’t admiring the stained-glass windows of the cathedrals and minsters, we were roaming the streets, trying to find a place to eat that could accommodate the eleven of us… spoiler alert, we rarely could. It was during these times that I probably had the most fun. Walking the busy, Harry Potter-looking streets made my inner fantasy-loving self extremely happy. Despite getting lost multiple times (some advice for future students on this trip… make sure your GPS is in walking mode, not driving), we managed to find hidden gems that allowed for us to make some pretty awesome memories.

The best part about York, to me, was the people. The energy we received from them was extremely welcoming, and I truly felt like I belonged there, despite being too American for my own good. A lot of the time, I was worried that we would be judged for being tourists; however, the people of York treated us like friends. From the guys at the pub who recognized our accents and wanted to talk about American football, to the lovely bartender who was genuinely interested in our lives back home, I have to say that it was the one time on our entire trip that I didn’t feel like a tourist.

Leaving York was a very sad day for me. Despite only being there for two days, I never wanted to leave, and I felt more attached and connected to it than I had in any other place on this trip. It was by far my favorite city that we visited. I encourage all future students going on this trip to keep an open mind about where you are going… you never know what you will find!

Emma Stack

The Gothic vs. the Classical

As someone who has long been in love with the Classical, seeing Medieval art and learning about how much they wanted to distance themselves from the Classical was especially interesting for me. At first, I was like “why would anyone want to distance themselves from Classical art?!” It’s beautiful, realistic (though idealized, but that’s a different conversation), detailed, and magnificent. But this course allowed me to physically walk through Medieval architecture and see face-to-face Medieval artwork…I was just immersed in the Gothic, something that I had not previously been so invested in. And it is magnificent in its own light. The pointed peaks and angles of the cathedrals, specifically the one I attached here in Canterbury, and the colorful and intricate stained glass were so impressive. Similarly to seeing ancient works, I was just wondering how in the world did they build massive and detailed cathedrals? How long did it take to paint the stained glass windows? It was spectacular walking through the artwork that paved its own cultural road, that being away from the Classical.

And through that immersion and learning more about the individuality of Medieval art I was finally able to understand why Medieval England made it such a point to carve their own style: to create something new, something uniquely English. The British Empire had been, and still was at the time, a powerful global force. The British had taken control of many parts of the world, and through that colonization had taken bits and pieces of other cultures and thus integrated that into their own culture. And of course, in the Western world I would argue that the greatest influence was the art and architecture of Ancient Greece (and Rome, though I think Rome ripped Greece off and got all the credit). Greek art and architecture had become so ingrained in Western culture in general, that the West kind of became synonymous with the Greek influence. But Britain wanted something different from the Classical; they wanted to forge new styles of art and architecture (aka the Gothic, as represented beautifully in Canterbury) and assert their own influence not only as conquerors, but as the bearers of a new cultural style. And I will say, looking at the Gothic versus the Classical today, the British achieved their goal. The high pointed ceilings in the cathedrals look nothing like the column-filled, open and airy temples of the ancient world. And the angular faces surrounded by colorful scenery and robes painted on the stained glass do not resemble the mythical carvings of the ancient world either (specifically, I included photos of the Elgin Marbles and what remains of the Pediment, both from Ancient Greece and now housed in the British Museum). The one stark similarity between the artistic styles is the influence of religion. The Elgin Marbles tell mythical stories and depict gods and mortals in battle, but the stained glass in the Canterbury Cathedral also tells a religious story. The stained glass depict the hierarchy of important religious figures and display biblical stories brought to life through art.

I have wanted to see the Elgin Marbles and the Pediment since I was 12, and seeing them was an out-of-body experience for me. But after walking through the spectacular creations of the Medieval Gothic style, I was absolutely just as impressed as I have been with the Classical for all these years. I’ve gained a great appreciation for Gothic art as a result, and I love seeing the differences between the Classical side-by-side.

— Anna Bender

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